BEAUTY TRICKS THAT THE STARS LOVE

Celebrity Make-Up Artist Gary Cockerill Shows  How To Be Confident When Using Cosmetics

Gary Cockerill is a celebrity make-up artist with more than 25 years' experience and a long list of clients, including Eva Longoria and Jo Wood.

In his new book, Simply Glamorous, Gary uses his self-taught make-up skills to transform a host of women, including Kelly Brook, Jerry Hall and even members of his own family.

'I wanted to show that make-up can be fun - and also powerful,' says Gary. Here, he reveals some of his top tips for women of any age on how to be confident with make-up and experiment to get the best look.

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Jo Wood: A Gary Cockerill make-over, as featured in his book Simply Glamorous: Make-Up Transformations To Make You Look & Feel Fabulous

SKIN

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Laura Mercier Creme Smooth Foundation (£41.50, johnlewis.com)

'I don't believe less is more when it comes to choosing make-up as you age,' says Gary. 'Our skin becomes sallow, so it's important to add warmth and colour to your features.

'Contouring works well because it acts like a mini facelift, enhancing the brows, chin and jaw, and accentuating the cheekbones to give definition.

'Stick to a cream or liquid foundation and use two different shades. Laura Mercier Creme Smooth Foundation (£41.50, johnlewis.com) works brilliantly - go for one lighter than your natural skin tone and one that's two shades darker.

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Studio 10 Prime & Perfect Refining Powder Silk (£28, marksandspencer.com)

'Apply the darker colour where you want to create depth - under the jaw and chin, down the neck, the sides of the nose and in the hollows of the cheeks. Then use the lighter shade on the areas you want to highlight, where light would naturally hit the face - under the eyes, above the cheekbones, below the brow bone and on the forehead.

'Use a blending brush and setting powder to finish. I often use Studio 10 Prime & Perfect Refining Powder Silk (£28, marksandspencer.com).'

EYES

'Steer away from frosted or shimmery shades around the eyes as you get older,' says Gary. 'These textures draw attention to wrinkles. The aim is to lift the eye area.

'Full-strip lashes can often look too dramatic, but individual lashes can be used to fill in any gaps and give a youthful look. Eylure Naturalites False Lashes (£13.79, boots.com) are easy to use.'

LIPS

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Joan Collins Divine Lips Lipstick in Lady Joan (£18, urban retreat.co.uk)

'I use a tiny amount of foundation to prime lips before applying colour,' says Gary. 'If you use dark lipstick, foundation helps it to stay in place.

'Next, line the lips with a pencil in a shade deeper than your lipstick. I like Contour Lip Pencil in Red by Joan Collins Timeless Beauty (£12, urbanretreat.co.uk). I then apply another layer of liner. Next, the lipstick - try Joan Collins Divine Lips Lipstick in Lady Joan (£18, urban retreat.co.uk).' 

AGE TIPS

40s: 'This is the time to address your skincare,' says Gary. 'Invest in a good primer and ensure skin is hydrated to keep fine lines and wrinkles at bay.'

50s: 'Brows become important at this age. If you are drawing them on, brunettes should go a shade darker than your hair colour, and blondes and redheads should go a shade lighter.'

60s: 'This is the age when your foundation needs to change,' advises Gary. 'A soft cream or liquid foundation is more flattering than powder. It is also important to choose a warm shade to enhance the skin.'

70s: 'Don't be afraid to use lip colour. Lips begin to lose definition as we age, but you can reshape them with lip liner. Stick to a lipstick or crayon that's creamy and won't drag the skin.'

80s: 'Eyes change dramatically as we age, but it is still important to emphasise them,' says Gary.

'I often use a blusher or bronzer on the eye area, because warm colours are flattering.'

DO YOU ACTUALLY NEED TO WASH YOUR FACE IN THE MORNING?

i always wonder if washing my face when I wake up is totally necessary. Besides the fact that it tacks on time to my already rushed morning ritual, my before-bed skin care routine consists of four or more steps and I always hit the pillow with a makeup-free face. So, is washing my face again in the morning a total waste of my not-exactly-inexpensive cleanser (all I did was go to sleep!), or is it actually helping my skin for the better? I sought out Melanie Palm, MD, MBA to find out.

The answer, to my surprise, is that we should be washing our faces when we awake. “Generally speaking, cosmetic dermatologists recommend that patients cleanse there face twice daily (morning and night),” Palm tells InStyle. “The nighttime cleansing removes dirt, debris, environmental pollutants, makeup and excess oil from a busy day.” However, Palm says that a daytime or morning cleanse is just as important for three main reasons:

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1) Removes unwanted skin contactants: 

Believe it or not, your skin can accumulate environmental debris in your sleep, so it’s necessary to wash them off in the morning. “Dead skin cells and allergens may collect on your pillowcase and be transferred to the facial skin throughout the night,” Palm says. “Circulated air (from you air conditioner or forced heated air) can also kick up dust, mold and other environmental irritants that may collect on facial skin overnight.” Yuck!

RELATED: The 5 Steps to Correctly Washing Your Face

2) Eliminates skin-producing oils and irritants: 

According to Palm, oils can also accumulate on the skin overnight, so properly removing them is crucial for your morning routine to be effective. Why? Removing the oils allows for better penetration of skin products and proper application of makeup. “For sensitive skin types in adults, particularly those with rosacea, there is a small skin mite that grows within our skin pores called Demodex,” Palm adds. “Properly cleansing our pores in the morning removes the dirt and debris that this skin critter lives off of and decreases the number of them living on our skin.”

3) Prepares skin for your morning routine: 

To get glowing skin, Palm recommends cleansing in the morning specifically to boost skin hydration levels—following up with your favorite moisturizer seals in the water, which in turn makes the skin appear plumper and more radiant. “Cleansing the skin properly prepares a fresh canvas for topical antioxidants, moisturizers, sunscreen, and/or makeup application, ensuring an even finish for your morning face,” Palm says. In addition, a morning cleansing routine is an opportunity to remove any traces of makeup that were not effectively removed the night before.

Tired of your everyday cleanser, but still want a fresh face in the morning? Try face wipes, cleansing facial oil, or micellar water as an innovative alternative.

THE TRUTH ABOUT KOREAN SKINCARE FROM A KOREAN DERMATOLOGIST

"Is the time, expense, and effort really worth it?"

As a dermatologist who has suffered from acne, I have access to every dermatologic prescription, but my Korean mother insists that her buzzy multi-step regimen​ is the remedy. Like many Korean women, my mother credits her flawless complexion to the super-intense skincare regimen that American women have begun to adopt in recent years. Studies have shown that South Korean women spend more money on skincare than dermatologic procedures. 

A traditional Korean skincare regimen goes something like this: pre-cleanse, cleanse, exfoliate, and then apply the following: toner, essence, ampoule, face mask, eye cream, emulsion and moisturizing cream. But is the expense, time and effort really worth it? Is there any science behind it? ​​What many K-beauty devotees don't know is that cosmeceuticals are not required to undergo stringent clinical trial testing, unlike prescription medications, lasers and devices. 

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According to Zoe Draelos, MD, Consulting Professor at Duke University, the Korean approach to skincare has some validity because, "instead of using a strong surfactant, oil-based products help to remove makeup, while water soluble products help to eliminate any remaining makeup," she says. "The essence contains a humectant, which rehydrates the skin as so much sebum has been removed from the cleansing steps. A separate moisturizer is needed for the eyes because it is a dryer area, these products are usually more occlusive for more moisturization." 

While the jury is still out on 10-step skincare, one thing is certain: An arduous process does not guarantee flawless. Clear skin is often genetic (and not all Asian have flawless skin). However, heightened skin-awareness can improve bad habits such as sleeping in makeup, or skipping daily sunscreen. Cleansing and moisturizing is essential, but if you don't use the treatments designed specifically to target your skin ailment, the likelihood of improvement with a skincare line is nil.  This is a skin care regimen to maintain your skin, not to treat chronic skin conditions. Consult with your dermatologist before incorporating such a regimen into your daily skincare routine.